There’s no better way to find out about local life than in a local pub. Northern Ireland’s got all kinds - from those with ancient history to the new kids on the block. So settle in, strike up a conversation and make yourself at home.
Belfast’s landmark pubs
For sheer exuberance, there’s nowhere quite like The Crown Liquor Saloon. Originally a Victorian gin palace, it has a ceiling in primrose yellow, red and gold, an intricate mosaic-tiled floor, brocaded walls and beautifully etched glass. A testament to the skills of the Italian craftsmen who, brought to Belfast to work on the area’s churches, stayed to create something a little more worldly. It also has a fine line in real ales, hearty pub food and an equally hearty welcome. Plus cosy snugs – still with their original metal plates for striking matches.
The Duke of York, down a narrow cobbled alleyway, is famous for its huge selection of Irish whiskeys and traditional music. Modern music is made here too. This is where internationally-acclaimed local band Snow Patrol played their first gig.
The best of Belfast pubs come with a whole lot of history and Henry’s is no exception. Named after Henry Joy McCracken, Belfast industrialist and United Irishman, it does great traditional food, music and locally brewed beers. You’ll find McHugh’s Bar under the Albert Clock, in Belfast’s dock area. Just across the street from the Custom House where Jim Larkin addressed the crowds during the 1907 Dock Strike, it’s now firmly part of Belfast’s modern culture.
Kelly’s Cellars was built in 1720 and not a lot has changed since. You’ll certainly find the same old-fashioned hospitality, along with traditional music, a pint and homemade Irish stew. A more recent arrival is The John Hewitt. Unique among Belfast pubs, it’s an enterprise owned by The Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre and named for the poet, socialist and Freeman of Belfast.
Town and country pubs in Antrim
Musicians from all over the world have played at The Crosskeys Inn, 30 minutes from Belfast. The oldest thatched pub in Northern Ireland, stepping over the threshold is stepping back in time. In the past, it’s been a coaching inn, a shop, a post office and a bar, now stocked with its own legendary Crosskeys Inn Irish Whiskey. A mere child by comparison, The Thatch Inn has only stood in the pretty village of Broughshane since 1773. A great spot for food too, it’s a firm favourite with climbers descending Slemish, in the Antrim Hills – once home to St. Patrick.
At Ballymena’s Smoking Monkey, beside The Grouse Restaurant and Bar, two impressively large monkeys greet you. Created by a metalworker from the famous Game of Thrones® sets, they’re an interesting spot for a selfie. Also in town, celebrity favourite The Front Page does tradition with a modern twist. Next to the former newspaper offices, its walls are adorned with front pages from years gone by. Gleno’s Billy Andy’s mixes a traditional pub with contemporary food. And, at Matties Meeting House, the Steak and Guinness Pie goes down a treat with the fine selection of beers, wines and spirits.
Cider and more in the Orchard County
Armagh city’s Hole in the Wall pub was a jail in a former life, yet it still manages to be surprisingly cosy. It’s full of local character, and local characters who are always happy to make some new visiting friends. It’s also a popular music venue and, apparently, home to a ghost.
If you’re after some more local flavour, Keegan’s Bar & Restaurant hits the spot. As does the locally sourced food it serves, along with a helping of Irish ‘craic’. And if you like the sound of that, wait till you hear the live music.
Further afield, there’s Digby’s Bar and Restaurant in Killylea. It started life in 1910 as a pub and greengrocers and is now an award-winning gastro pub. Basil Shiels Bar and Restaurant is another favourite. And, of course, this is Orchard County. So be sure to try some of Armagh’s wonderful local ciders as you go.
Cheers to the Causeway Coastal Route
In the village of Cushenden, Mary McBride’s Bar is packed with character, music and interesting stories – many of them about its one-time landlady, Mary McBride herself. Monday nights here are quiz night. A perfect chance to quiz the locals about those old tales.
Northern Ireland’s highest bar, the Ponderosa is loved for its fresh seafood, local dishes and natural charm. And old meets new in seaside Ballycastle where the revamped Fullerton Arms offers a selection of Bushmills whiskeys, craft beers and gin.
Reputedly serving the best pint of Guinness in North Antrim, music nights at O’Connor’s Bar attract the best of local up-and-coming talent. Be prepared for a night of fun and music – or, as they say themselves, ‘craic agus ceol’. Johnny Joe’s (McCollums) in Cushendall has been in the family since the mid-19th century. A destination pub for musicians, it boasts no screens or game tables. Just rooms with turf fires, great conversation, poetry and song.
Music, tradition and Derry-Londonderry
Don’t be confused by the grocer décor, the world-famous Peadar O’Donnell’s is the place for live traditional and contemporary music and a draw for visitors from all over. The Dungloe Bar is another music favourite. Badgers Bar and Restaurant is a great spot for a shopping break. And you’ll find cocktails and a fantastic atmosphere in the Blackbird.
Down to business
The StillHouse is a family-owned Distillery Gastropub, producing the stunning RubyBlue range of Potato Vodkas, Gins and Liqueurs on site. There’s magic brewing too at Hilden Brewery - Northern Ireland's oldest independent brewery.
Hillsborough brings you The Parson’s Nose, with outstanding food, drink and hospitality. It has a listing in The Michelin Guide to prove it. Or check out The Plough Inn’s friendly pints and The Hillside’s rustic charm and cobbled courtyard.
Off Sketrick Island in Strangford Lough, Daft Eddy's Bar and Restaurant promises wonderful hospitality – plus fresh oysters and lobster (pre-order to be sure). There’s excellent food and drink too at The Cuan. Family-run pub, the Fiddlers Green in Portaferry has a handy B&B attached. Another fine family-owned pub is the pretty as a picture Maghera Inn. While the Primrose Bar and Restaurant serves up tasty cuisine and warm hospitality in equal measure.
Drinking in Fermanagh’s views
One of Northern Ireland’s most famous Victorian pubs, Blakes of the Hollow has sat on County Fermanagh’s shores for over 125 years. The snug is just the place to enjoy a pint or a delicious Irish coffee.
In Enniskillen, Magee’s Spirit Store and Bar - the town’s oldest pub - is a big hit with the trendiest clientele. No doubt attracted by the top class beers, spirits and cocktails. And music that ranges from funk and soul to disco and house. Or try the Devenish Lounge or the family-run Horseshoe Bar and Saddlers Bistro & Wine Bar.
Tastings in Tyrone
In the welcoming village of Moy, you’ll find Tomneys Bar. Old-style, traditional and one of the most fun places you could be. The music is live, the craic is phenomenal and the locals can’t wait to meet you. The Auction Rooms has a great drinks menu and exceptionally friendly staff. Try the Ceili House - a pub where ceilis seem to happen at the drop of a hat. Or Sallys in Omagh, serving premium drinks and fantastic food in a very chilled atmosphere.
Northern Ireland’s pubs are as varied as its people and the people who come to visit them – happily playing host to everything from foot-tapping sessions to the most cosmopolitan of cocktails. And always happy to welcome you.
